Reloading for 38. Special

[Postal Bob]

Interesting as that's not put into their rule book online. As I don't shoot revolver, I never read about that or worried about it.
But since the change is dated 1 1/2 years ago, maybe it's time they update their rule book. 

[Big Matt]

Do you mean the one on their website dated 2005? That might be a good idea.

[bob]

BigMatt good intel.  Had no idea of this new rule.

[Postal Bob]

Do you mean the one on their website dated 2005? That might be a good idea.

Yeah, thats what I mean. It's time to update the rule book or add appendums to it.

[Cd662]

Here are the power floors/factors:

IDPA: 105*
USPSA: 125,000
ICORE: 120,000**

*IDPA uses the tip back method during official chronograph procedure. The gun is tilted back so the powder is against the primer. This gives a velocity boost. I don't know anyone offhand that actually shoots 105 Power Factor.
**Exempt if shooting certain large brand factory 158 Grain Round Nose Bullets.


I agree with the comments about Titegroup. My Titegroup loads with lead round nose are very smokey and dirty.

[Athk01]

So I put my first production lot into practice yesterday and they worked well. Slightly difficult to speed load fast, slight low point of aim, other than that only one problem. I must have not corrected one of those deformed pieces of brass, or it got mixed in. I speed loaded this batch of 6 and the cylinder would not spin. Thankfully on impulse I swung out the cylinder and dumped them all. It worked out, I completed the round.

Yes they were smoky.

What powder works well and is not so smokey?

[bob]

Between the lead and the bullet lube add to the mix a bit of air humidity and I don't know of any load that will not be smokey.  Some bullet lubes (the blue stuff in the bullet grooves) will smoke more than others, but most of the cowboy ones will smoke a lot.  Also the cowboy bullet heads will be of a softer lead alloy and also more prone to smoke.  Most of the lead ones for autos will smoke a bit less because of the opposite reasons.  I would suggest for you to shoot your loads in the good old outdoors...

[Athk01]

Truthfully I don't really mind if it is smokey or not.

Now for health reasons I would look at changing the material type and the powder. Most of my shooting is done at Freeport.

[DoubleMike]

If you want to get rid of the smoke with titegroup, switch to a Berry/Rainier type plated bullet or a CMJ Montana Gold. Also most any hollow point will have a covered base.

[bob]

If you want to get rid of the smoke with titegroup, switch to a Berry/Rainier type plated bullet or a CMJ Montana Gold. Also most any hollow point will have a covered base.

 

The smoke can make it uncomfortable to shoot indoors... As health goes, there is enough carcinogens in the smoke emanating for the primer and powder alone I would not worry about it ... Well plenty of that in most of the cleaning stuff also... Lead poisoning may be the last thing to worry about... Which maybe a good thing ... Lol

[Athk01]

So I am up to my third batch and this one so far is the best. I sat the bullet hard to the crimp grove and upped the powder from 3.2 to 3.4 grains. I used this batch today and I was able to hit where I intended. So far so good. Thanks everyone.

[fmelloni82]

Have them give it to you in the original container, like the last bit before they're finished.

You never want to store any components in any other container then the original.


If that's too much of a pain you can do this.

Get an old powder container, make sure it is COMPLETELY empty and cleaned out.

Remove the label (do this first). Then carefully make a new label with the powder thats going into it.

Make sure you note brand and type of powder . (ie hodgdon 4859) so its not confuse with a similar powder (like imr4895) . Write the lot number and the number from the upc as well on it

[Athk01]

As it stands we never split powder. I purchased my own and no longer find a need to experiment. I am good with Titegroup and will be looking at Clays for the next batches.