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Author Topic: Reloading for 38. Special  (Read 2160 times)

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Online Athk01

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Re: Reloading for 38. Special
« Reply #60 on: June 24, 2012, 05:59PM »
What die handles the re-sizing? I have a set that includes 3 dies.

Online DoubleMike

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Re: Reloading for 38. Special
« Reply #61 on: June 24, 2012, 06:22PM »
The die with the pin that does the decapping will size.

Online Postal Bob

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Re: Reloading for 38. Special
« Reply #62 on: June 24, 2012, 06:54PM »
It could also be that you didn't flare the case mouth enough with the second die, expander die. Or you set the crimp too tight on the 3rd die, which is the seating/crimping die. Either case would cause the bullet to be pushed down on the top of the case mouth, instead of into it. This would cause a slight bulge towards the bottom of the cartidge, which is why it wouldn't go into the chamber all the way.
After using the expanding die, there should be a slight flare of the case mouth. The bullet base should be able to just sit on the case mouth after this. If there is no flare, adjust some more. If that is fine, which I'm guessing it is, then it's definitely the last die where you have too much crimp before the bullet is seated to the correct depth. Whats happening is the case mouth is being crimped closed before the bullet is seated all the way down. And then the bullet can't go in anymore, and it bulges the case. Most people buy a seperate crimp die, and adjust the seating die to seat the bullet only.
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Online Athk01

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Re: Reloading for 38. Special
« Reply #63 on: June 24, 2012, 07:57PM »
I think the problem could be at the de-capping die. I made the pin come out most of the way and did not run the brass uP into it completely. I will adjust it so that the brass runs through it completely. Now I need to get that special hammer and undo my mess.

Offline bob

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Re: Reloading for 38. Special
« Reply #64 on: June 25, 2012, 12:17AM »
This maybe good to watch

DIY Adjusting Reloading Dies
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Online Athk01

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Re: Reloading for 38. Special
« Reply #65 on: June 25, 2012, 07:38AM »
I looked over the video and I definitely did not run the brass all the way up the de-capping die. I set it completely off. If I adjust it and run the brass through it again do you think it will correct the brass? I don't think I messed up at the bullet seating step as I did not meet up with that much resistance. By the way the cast 135 bullet has a strip that runs the diameter of the bullet. I seated the bullet just a little past that with the crimp at that area. Anymore and it does not look right, any less and I feel it is to little depth.

Online DoubleMike

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Re: Reloading for 38. Special
« Reply #66 on: June 25, 2012, 07:57AM »
If you re-adjust the sizing die and run your empty brass cases through it, it will fix the brass.

How you seated the bullets should relate to the data in your load manual. Going a bit longer than their listed OAL is safe as long as you don't go too long. Going shorter is not good unless you adjust your powder charge to compensate. You will need a set of calipers to measure this.


Online Athk01

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Re: Reloading for 38. Special
« Reply #67 on: June 25, 2012, 07:34PM »
I looked over some of the brass. I took a sample and there are no sizing problems with the brass so it's not the de-primer. I am messing up the brass in the flaring or in the seating step.

Also where is the depth to seat specifications listed? The information listed in the Lee book includes the seat depth for the 158 grain. Would I follow this measurement, over all length 1.550 keeping the cast lead bullet out that much? It felt flimsy and not well seated if I attempted to meet these measurements.

Online Postal Bob

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Re: Reloading for 38. Special
« Reply #68 on: June 25, 2012, 08:19PM »
You have to read carefully when they list the cartidge length. One spot, usually at the top page of the cartridge data with other case measurements, they'll give you what the max length of the cartridge should be. That is the longest you can make the cartridge to fit in standard guns in that caliber. Then in the load data they sometimes list c.o.l. measurements for a specific type of bullet and powder. This would be the minimum length you can safely seat that particular bullet and powder combo. You can always go longer, but not shorter.
As far as what length to make them, you can start by measuring a comparable factory round, and start from there. And bullets for revolvers usually have a crimping groove built in, which is where you should seat them to.
As far as the 1.550 length you mention, that is the maximum length for the cartridge you should never go past. It's not the length you should necessarily be loading those bullets to. Past that length, and they may stick out past the front of the chamber, and not allow the cylinder to rotate. If the 135 gr bullet has a crimping groove use that. Or if not, load so the top shoulder of the bullet is just below the case mouth. Then the crimp will roll over the shoulder, and help hold the bullet in place during recoil.
If you can post some pictures of what your reloaded cartridges look like, along with the bullets you are using, that would help a lot. But I still think you are overcrimping the case, or crimping where there isn't a groove or shoulder in the bullet. And this is causing your cases to bulge ever so slight.
« Last Edit: June 25, 2012, 08:21PM by Postal Bob »
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Online DoubleMike

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Re: Reloading for 38. Special
« Reply #69 on: June 25, 2012, 08:26PM »
If it is not a sizing issue, it is most likely what PB posted about crushing the case with the seating/crimping die.

Your OAL is one of the most critical things to get right. Your load data should list pressures, pressure is what determines what is safe and what is not. Those pressures were measured using the powder charge listed, the bullet listed, and the OAL listed. If you shorten the OAL, your pressures quickly rise and can get dangerous. You should use the OAL listed for the load and bullet you are using. You can go longer as long as you don't exceed the SAMMI limit but never go shorter.

Offline bob

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Re: Reloading for 38. Special
« Reply #70 on: June 25, 2012, 08:32PM »
 :agree

Also if you can, make sure you don't crimp with your sitting die.  Most sitting dies will also crimp while sitting the bullet.  The 38 special is a thin cartridge and sometimes the pressure of crimping while sitting can cause deformities.  Make sure to crimp using a separate die.  The video I posted shows how to setup the sitting die without crimping. 

The easies way to deal with cartridge length is to find a bullet with the same weight and profile as a factory load you may have handy.  Use the factory cartridge to adjust the sitting die as the video demonstrates.

Post a picture of the bullets which are giving you trouble.   You can upload it here...  8)
« Last Edit: June 25, 2012, 08:34PM by bob »
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Online Postal Bob

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Re: Reloading for 38. Special
« Reply #71 on: June 25, 2012, 08:41PM »
I'm assuming you're using a similar bullet like this. So here is where you should seat the bullet to. And always reduce your powder charge by 10% of the max listed when you start a new load for safety.
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Online Athk01

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Re: Reloading for 38. Special
« Reply #72 on: June 26, 2012, 08:30AM »
Yes that is the bullet head that I am using. I seated it using the information I read in one of the books. I seated it just above the blue line.

DoubleMike; Yes I see the pressure listing but I have no means of testing that pressure. I used the bullet head as the guide. I don't have any 135 Gn complete bullets, if someone does, can you take a measurement and I will work off that. Unless there is a way to translate the pressure information into seating depth. I admit when the formulas came up in the book I nodded out and skipped the page. I did not enjoy math in high school or in college, so if it does not concern money I avoid it.

Online Athk01

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Re: Reloading for 38. Special
« Reply #73 on: June 26, 2012, 08:33AM »
This is an example.
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Online Athk01

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Re: Reloading for 38. Special
« Reply #74 on: June 26, 2012, 08:34AM »
I seated the bullet just above the blue line and just below the top lip.